The Spectacular Hidden Gems on Kyoto's Doorstep
Discover the best spots in Shiga Prefecture, all less than an hour from Japan's ancient capital
Hello Insiders!
In this month’s edition:
As it sits right next to Kyoto, Shiga Prefecture is most often overlooked by overseas visitors like you. But after years of working and travelling in the region, I’ve come to realise that it’s hugely underrated. This month I’m presenting the very best of Shiga in the hope that some of you will take a day of your itinerary and give the area some love.
Side note: this month’s post is adapted from an upcoming book about where to visit in the Kansai Region. I won’t tempt fate with a release date, but suffice to say, it’s on the way.
Lead Actor: Hikone Castle
One of the few original castles left in Japan, this magnificent national treasure comes complete with surrounding feudal buildings and town layout.
Visitors to Kansai commonly add in a day-trip to Himeji Castle to round out their Japan adventure. While I don't want to downplay the majestic beauty of that particular stronghold, the crowds that go hand in hand with a visit are much harder to gloss over.
Fortunately, if you head north-east into Shiga Prefecture, Hikone also has an original castle (as in, it never burned down and got rebuilt). It dates back to 1622. Despite being relatively small, the keep (the castle's main building) is one of a kind, since it blends several architectural styles. This is why Japan gave it the prestigious title of "national treasure." And there are only four other castles that have the same designation!
What I particularly enjoy about Hikone Castle is how many of the buildings and fortifications are still intact. There are guard houses, turrets, gates, inner moats and bridges, storehouses and stables, amongst others.
With so many authentic feudal buildings here, it's very easy to get an idea of what life as a castle retainer might have felt like. There's an army on the horizon? Quick, sound the alarm! Furthermore, the outer moat and walls are also still around, and a circuit of the perimeter makes for a particularly relaxing walk either before or after you tour the site.
Indeed, the laid-back atmosphere of Hikone is one of its biggest selling points. Without huge crowds, you're free to take your time exploring every nook of the keep's interior. Just don't forget to soak up the panoramic views from the windows on the highest level.
Unlike other castle towns, Hikone is free of so many of the trappings of other tourist-filled hotspots. Yume Kyobashi Castle Road, which you'll find in front of the outer moat, is a case in point. The street has been carefully tailored to look and feel like part of an historical town. This makes it an ideal spot to find a cafe and unwind after you've finished playing King or Queen of the Castle. It's the perfect way to end your visit before continuing your trip.
Access
Hikone Station (JR Biwako Line)
from Kyoto
50 minutes by “Special Rapid” train
35 mins by Shinkansen (Hikari or Kodama)
(change at Maibara to a local train south)Hikone Castle is an easy 15 minute walk from the station.
Support: Omihachiman
This well-preserved old city takes you back to the days of slow commerce, with goods moving at a snail’s pace along the Nakasendo trading route between Kyoto and Tokyo. Omihachiman is full of picturesque old-time townscapes, complete with canals you can cruise along, and a merchant street lined with traditional wooden townhouses, allowing an easy amble through history. You should also consider a trip up Mount Hachiman via the ropeway, and enjoy the views of Lake Biwa and the surrounding area at the summit.
Scene Stealer: Enryakuji Temple
This mountain-top temple complex has a storied history as the training ground for key figures in Japanese Buddhism. As a historic monument of ancient Kyoto, it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However, Enryakuji sits squarely within the bounds of Shiga Prefecture, and the most impressive approach is from this side of the mountain.
Dating back to late in the 8th century, Enryakuji is made up of three zones covering vast swathes of the forest-covered peak. Many notable monks down through the ages have made the pilgrimage to study here, and being so high up a mountain and deep in dense forests, it's not hard to see why.
The spectacular ride up via the Sakamoto Cable Car involves such a steep climb that you'll wonder how on earth it's possible, especially when this is the longest cable car of its kind in Japan. At the top you’ll find an other-worldly atmosphere, as well as stunning views of Lake Biwa.
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That’s all for this month! See ya!
Andrew
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